Jacques Favre

What persuaded the craftsmen of Geneva to start making portable time pieces? Strangely enough, it was religion and the reformation – in 1541the influential theologian, Jean Calvin, implemented reforms that banned the wearing of jewels in the city. This forced the goldsmiths and other jewellers to apply their skills to a craft that was just getting started – watchmaking. By the end of the century, Genevan watches had established an excellent reputation for high quality, and 1601 the Watchmakers’ Guild of Geneva was formed – the first of its kind anywhere in the world. The rest, as they say, is history.

The Swiss industry was therefore well established when, on May 1st 1839 Antoni Patek, together with another Polish immigrant, the gifted Warsaw watchmaker Franciszek Czapek, started making pocket watches in the city.

The company’s first pocket watches were produced to individual orders. With only half a dozen workers the small business of Patek, Czapek & Co produced about two hundred watches a year. Primarily the young’s firm artistic production reflected themes from Polish history and culture, such as portraits of revolutionary heroes, 10th and 12th centuries’ legends, and the cult of the Polish The Black Madonna of Częstochowa.

Disagreements between Patek and Czapek obliged the latter to withdraw and in 1845 his place was filled by 30 year old Frenchman Adrien Philippe, who in 1842 had invented the key-less winding mechanism.

Things really started to take off in 1851 when the new company, Patek Philippe started supplying its watches to Queen Victoria and her consort, Prince Albert – this immediately attracted attention of all the major courts of Europe. Customers included Pope Pius IX, Pope Leo XIII, Christian IX and Princess Louise of Denmark , Victor Emmanuel III of Italy and Hussein Kamel, Sultan of Egypt from 1914 to 1918).

Since this surge in popularity Patek Philippe timepieces have recorded high closing prices in auctions worldwide. In 1999 one of their watches sold for $1,000,000, becoming the most expensive time piece ever produced. They beat their own record in 2008 when one of their tourbillon watches sold in Hong Kong for $1,400,000. Then in 2010 they once again topped their own record for the most expensive wristwatch in history at an auction in Geneva, achieving a staggering $5,500,000!

The company was acquired by the Stern family in the early 20th century and it was he who founded the Patek Philippe Museum in 2001. Located in an entirely restored Art Deco building in Geneva’s Plainpalais district it houses a collection that spans over four centuries of watchmaking.

Nearly 1500 wristwatches and pocket watches as well as rare musical automata and enameled portrait miniatures are exhibited in a former factory building. This is divided into two sections. The first is an extraordinary array of Genevese, Swiss and European watches and enamels dating from the 16th to the early 19th century, including a great number of masterpieces that have left their mark on the history of horology.

The second half of the collection is an evocative showcase of watches designed and created by Patek Philippe since its foundation in 1839 up to the present day, testifying to more than 160 years of creativity in the production of pocket watches and wristwatches.

So, when next in Geneva take some time out to watch the clock – lots of them!

Jacques Favre

Serious yacht racing has been described as akin to standing under a shower whilst tearing up huge quantities of bank notes. So it’s perhaps appropriate that one of the world’s most prestigious regattas should be held at Geneva, one of the world’s premier banking and financial centres.

Organised for the first time in 1939, the Bol d’Or has become the world’s most important regatta on an inland lake, attracting champion sailors from all over Europe, as well as some big sailing names from the rest of the globe. It all started with just 26 boats, but by 1990 there were 684 entrants. In 2007 that number had been reduced to a more manageable 526, still a spectacular sight as they all jostle for position on the start line.

The setting is magnificent, as competitors glide across the crystal clear waters of Lake Geneva against the magnificent backdrop of the snow-capped alpine peaks. Held every year on the second weekend in June the weather is usually fabulous, as you’ll see from the videos.

Lake Geneva

The start line is directly opposite the Geneva Yacht Club and the course is kept incredibly simple. There’s only one mark yachts have to round, at the very far end of the lake, just off the town of Le Bouveret – leaving this to starboard the boats then head back to the finish line at Geneva. It’s a 66.5-mile (123km) round trip made especially challenging by the variable winds which swirling around the valley, bouncing off the surrounding mountains. Even when these winds are light the bigger yachts achieve terrific speeds thanks to the huge amount of sail they carry.

The race starts at 9am on Saturday morning and the fastest yachts return by mid-afternoon. The real-time winner of the race wins the Bol d’Or Mirabaud challenge. This trophy is put back into play each year, but a team that manages to win the trophy three times in five years earns the right to keep it (with only three boats achieving this to date). There’s a separate prize, the Bol de Vermeil trophy, awarded to the first monohull boat across the line.

Racing Crew

The Bol d’Or Mirabaud has forged a fabulous reputation over the years and has become one of the great Classics on the international sailing calendar. The world’s greatest yachtsmen have participated in and won the Bol d’Or, including Loïck Peyron, Ernesto Bertarelli, Alain Gautier, Russell Coutts, Philippe Durr, Eric Tabarly, Dennis Conner and many others. With about 2,500 crew members, and huge numbers of spectators, it’s an all weekend affair with a spectacular selection of parties and celebrations

Over the years the event has notched up a number of notable milestones, but here are some of the highlights:

1939. 26 entries, Ylliam IV, owned by F. Firmenich, won in 23:08’34”.

1950. 50 participants entered, 1st completion in under 20 hours achieved by Glana, 8mJI, owned by H. Guisan, in 16:25’45”.

1956. First race in less than twelve hours, by lliam IX, owned by A. Firmenich, helmed by Louis Noverraz, in 11:04’57”.

1980. First victory by a multi-hull, Altaïr IX, owned by Ph. Stern, in 15:27’06”.

1983. First victory by a flying boat!!! The Super Tornado Holy Smoke of A. Schiess wins thanks to its hydro foils, allowing the boat to set sail and fly in the “Morget” wind.

1986. New speed record of under eight hours set by Altaïr X, owned by Ph. Stern, in 7:20’55”.

1989. Dennis Conner and his revolutionary catamaran Stars and Stripes – with which he just won the America’s Cup – establish a new time record of 6:57’33”.

1994. “Bise” windstorm. Multi-hull record beaten by Triga IV, owned by P.M. Leuenberger, in 5:01’51”. Mono-hull record beaten by Corum Modulo 108, owned by B. Siegfried, in 8:45’40”.

The Hotel d’Angleterre, with fine views towards the start and finish lines, is the perfect choice if you want to make the most of this spectacular occasion. But hurry, rooms are being booked up fast!

Jacques Favre

Geneva is the gateway to the French Alps, and has some of the world’s finest skiing almost on the doorstep. For travelling times to these, and indeed all the main resorts in the Alps, click here. As you’ll see, the choice is bewildering, but to make it easier for you here are my six favourites.

Grand Massif Ski Area

Between Geneva and Mont Blanc, it includes four charming traditional resorts – Morillon, Samoëns, Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and Les Carroz – and the modern resort of Flaine. France’s fourth biggest ski area, it has 265 km of piste, offering a great variety of terrain for all levels, reliable snow and a lack of queues.

Portes-du-soleil

The lovely Portes-du-soleil area, tucked away between Lake Geneva and Mont-Blanc embraces 12 resorts. The location, in the most northern part of the French Alps, combined with the effects of the lake, produces a microclimate which is blessed with optimal snowfall and above average sunshine throughout the winter – hence the name.

Mont Blanc

Skiing

Not first choice for beginners! The Chamonix Valley, with Mont Blanc looming above it, is famous for being the best freeride resort in the world. Includes 5 resorts – Grand Montets, Les Houches, Le Tour/Balme, La Flegere and Le Brevent . If you get bored with them (you won’t!) you can also ski down Mont Blanc itself on the Mer de Glace – but take a guide.

Trois Valees

The largest ski area in the world, and understandably extremely popular (but with plenty of room for everyone), it includes the resorts of Courchevel, Méribel, Les Menuires and Val Thorens (Europe’s highest ski resort).

Espace Killy

This world renowned ski destination, home of Jean Claude Killy, includes the resorts of Tignes and Val d’Isere. The latter is arguably the most popular French ski resort amongst the British, but Tignes probably has the edge if you want to ski to the door and aren’t bothered by a lack of traditional charm.

Family Fun

Les Deux Alpes

One of the oldest ski resorts in France offering fantastic ski and snowboard terrain that includes glaciers, open powder fields, natural gullies and cliff drops, endless linking groomed trails and gentle beginner only areas. Nowhere else in the French Alps has such a variety of clubs, pubs, and après-ski fun as this picturesque village.

Whichever ski area you choose you are certain to need a few days rest before returning to the rigours of work – and where better to recuperate than the delightful city of Geneva? You’ll can see Mont Blanc from most of the rooms, while our Get More From Your Stay package is sure to prove very tempting after days of pounding the pistes!

Gilles Ogger

Geneva is relatively small – but it plays a huge role in world affairs, attracting the wealthy and famous from far and wide.

The city has always been at the “eye of the storm” in Europe’s cataclysmic history and the locals sensibly adopted a policy of neutrality and religious tolerance.  This has not only helped them survive, but has also attracted exiles such as John Calvin, refugees from the English civil war and even Lenin.  This neutrality, and the tax friendly environment, has made it a significant corporate centre – major financial and business enterprises are amongst 200 international organisations that have located their headquarters here, including the League of Nations (predecessor of the United Nations), the International Committee of the Red Cross and the World Health Organisation. 

The city is undeniably wealthy, boasting plenty of exclusive stores and boutiques.  Most are to be found along the chic Rue du Rhône, Rue de la Confédération, Rue du Marché and Rue de la Croix-d’Or – these streets are quite literally lined with gold, thanks to the sheer profusion of watch and jewellery shops.  There’s also no shortage of Swiss Chocolate and a wealth of antique dealers and art galleries in the Old Town. 

Geneva’s attractions can easily be covered on foot, but there’s also the tram system.  The Old Town is dominated by the Cathédrale St-Pierre, situated next to the Auditoire, the church in which Calvin taught and John Knox preached and supervised the production of the Geneva Bible.  The Ile Rousseau, a little island in the River Rhône, has a famous statue of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, plus (until January 10th 2010) a remarkable exhibition explaining everything you ever wanted to know about the human genome!

Geneva is known as the ‘City of Parks’.  As well as the Jardin Anglais, the city centre boasts the Promenade des Bastions, below the Old Town walls, which contains the famous Reformation Wall, giant outdoor chess boards and open-air winter skating rink. 

Lac Léman is also a large part of the Geneva’s appeal. Motorboats, affectionately named mouettes (seagulls), crisscross the waters, providing excellent views of the city, castles, monuments and surrounding mountains, as well as a close-up shot of the city emblem, the spectacular Jet d’Eau.  This famed fountain is an impressive 147 metre plume of sparkling water that dominates every view of the city.

Other attractions include the International Red Cross Museum, which pays tribute to the extraordinary deeds of those who have served humanity for over 100 years.  The Museum of Art and History gives a fascinating insight into the city’s past while the Patek Philippe museum reveals the history and development of Swiss timepieces.

There’s no shortage of enticing and entertaining ways to spend the evening.  Gentlemen with curled white moustaches in smart suits enjoy the same bars as the young professionals and students, while all generations take pleasure in soaking up the evening sun during the summer nights.  My personal favourite is the Hotel d’Angleterre’s Leopard Room Bar, open to residents and non-residents alike – I’m obviously a little biased but many of most discerning Geneva locals agree!

Dover Sole, as the name suggests, is not a fish one catches off the steeply shelving coast of South Africa, but one that prefers the shallow continental water of the English Channel and North Sea.

I first encountered this delicacy when we moved to London in the mid-seventies, and very quickly developed a passion for it, either grilled or meunière. As with all fish dishes you need to find the best possible raw materials, then let the natural flavours speak for themselves – simple as this sounds in theory, it takes practice to perfect!

There are several little tricks that must be mastered. First, and perhaps most important of all, you must never overcook it. Secondly, and slightly contrary to the first tip, both sides must be as crispy as possible.

So, how to achieve the crispiness without spoiling the gorgeous melt-in-your-mouth moistness of the delicate flesh?

Start by lightly seasoning it with salt and pepper, then dust with flour. Next, brush both sides with about a tablespoon of olive oil. Then place it on a hot char-grill (or a ridged cast iron pan) for just 90 seconds (no more!), then carefully turn it at a 90° angle, on the same side, for a further 90 seconds to achieve a lovely diamond cross-hatching effect. Turn it over with a metal spatula (carefully!) and do the same again. Then gently transfer it onto a baking dish and place in the oven at 180°C for 8-10 minutes. The fish is done when the bones move easily away from the flesh when you delicately insert a fork.

It’s best served with simple accompaniments – home made tartare sauce, freshly squeezed lemon juice and boiled new potatoes (tossed with a touch of butter, olive oil and chopped parsley). Done properly, it’s a taste of pure heaven, and one that one never seems to get tired of.

That’s why it’s a regular feature on the menu at some of our hotels, and why I’ve included it in my cook book – entitled “A Life in Food” it celebrates those recipes which are enduring favourites with our guests.  All proceeds, excluding postage and packaging, will be donated to my favourite charities – The Startlight Foundation and The Tick Tock Club in the UK.