Charles Lotter

Monkey World, near Wareham, Dorset, was set up in 1987 by the late Jim Cronin then operated by him and his wife. It was originally intended to provide a home and rescue centre for abused chimpanzees used as props by Spanish beach photographers, but is now home to many different species of primates.

Jim Cronin started by leasing a 65-acre pig farm that had fallen into disuse. Once he received permission to build his first enclosures he brought 8 rescued beach chimpanzees from Spain to the park. There was also a group of Barbary Macaques, and a one hand-reared Orangutan named Amy. These numbers grew steadily and now Monkey World has become the largest primate rescue centre in the world, working with foreign governments to stop the illegal smuggling, abuse, or neglect of primates.

Ash & Rodders the chimpanzees

The centre is now home to over 240 rescued primates of 16 different species and is rated as one of the most popular family attractions in the UK. In 2006 Jim and his wife Alison had their efforts recognised with the honour of Member of the British Empire (MBE) for services to animal welfare. Sadly Jim passed away in 2007 but Monkey World continues its great work.

There are currently 59 chimpanzees at Monkey World, in four different social groups. The rescued chimpanzees are rehabilitated into large social groups. Visitors can also see five different species of gibbons, Bornean and Sumatran orangutans, and 8 species of monkeys; capuchin monkeys, common marmosets, cotton-top tamarins, ring-tailed lemurs, a ruffed lemur, squirrel monkeys, stump-tailed macaques and woolly monkeys.

Silvestre the Sumatran orang-utan

Two well-loved television series, Monkey Business and Monkey Life, document the centre’s frequent rescue missions, undercover investigations, and the soap opera provided by the lives of the rescued monkeys and apes.

I highly recommend a visit. Monkey World is about 40 minutes’ drive from Summer Lodge and open every day except Christmas Day, from 10am to 5pm (6pm in July and August).

Images © Monkey World.

Charles Lotter

The Jurassic Coast ranks with the Great Barrier Reef and the Grand Canyon as one of the recognised natural wonders of the world. It provides a fascinating scenic walk through 185 million years of history covering the Jurassic, Triassic and Cretaceous periods.

Parts of the coast are world famous for fossils and new specimens are being constantly uncovered. However, that’s only part of the attraction – the entire stretch is stunningly beautiful with an unparalleled range of dramatic natural features from landslides to rock arches. Here’s a list of must-see highlights.

Lulworth Cove

The hard rocks at the very edge of the cliffs have eroded much more slowly than the rocks behind – this explains Lulworth Cove’s distinctive horseshoe shape. There’s a lovely beach, fascinating heritage centre, and tiny village with a small hotel and two ancient pubs. The beautiful rock arch of Durdle Door is nearby.

The Fossil Forest

Just to the east of Lulworth Cove is the Fossil Forest. It formed 144 million years ago when sea levels dropped and trees started growing. The area then became swampland with thick layers of algae growing around the stumps and fallen logs. Sediment then covered and fossilised them in the shapes you can see today – the most complete fossil record of a Jurassic forest in the world.

Chesil Beach and Fleet Lagoon

Chesil Beach

Chesil Beach is an awe inspiring 18 mile long pebble beach, separated from the mainland by a remarkable area of saline water called the Fleet Lagoon. The desolate atmosphere has inspired two famous novels – “Moonfleet”, the hair-raising tale of ghosts and smugglers, and the more recent “On Chesil Beach” by Ian McEwen.

Abbotsbury Swannery

Abbotsbury Swannery, at the western end of Chesil Beach, is only place in the world where you are able to walk through the heart of a colony of nesting Mute Swans. It was established by Benedictine Monks who built a monastery at Abbotsbury during the 1040’s. They farmed the swans to produce food for their lavish Dorset banquets!

Fossil from Jurassic Coast

Lyme Regis and Charmouth

Lyme Regis and Charmouth are two of the best spots for fossil hunting – but click here for directions to all the different fossil sites along this coast. Ammonites, Belemnites and even bones from Ichthyosaurs, or “fish lizards”, are frequently uncovered.

See the exhibits in the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre, the Lyme Regis Philpot Museum and Dinosaurland, or take a guided tour with local experts. Also read the novel, “Remarkable Creatures” by Tracy Chevalier for the amazing story of local fossil hunter Mary Anning.

The Undercliff

The Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs National Nature Reserve is one of the most important wilderness areas in Britain. The entire reserve is formed from landslides, and is particularly famous for the occurrence of an enormous landslide at Bindon on Christmas Eve 1839. The area was brought vividly to life in the novel and film “The French Lieutenant’s Woman”.

Beer Caves

Just behind the village of Beer there is a layer of Chalk known as Beer Stone, composed of minute shell fragments. It’s a high quality masonry stone used in many important buildings. Quarried from underground since Roman times, the workings have created Beer Quarry Caves which cover an area equivalent to over 50 football pitches. Guided tours are available.

Golden Cap

Golden Cap is the highest cliff on the South coast of England. It forms part of West Bay, the site of many enormous landslides that occur from time to time. The views and walking are exceptional.

The Isle of Portland

The Isle of Portland is home to Portland Stone, probably the most famous building stone in the world. Many of London’s finest buildings have been, and continue to be, built using this fine white limestone. The earliest known use was by the Romans. Christopher Wren famously chose the stone for the rebuilding of St Paul’s Cathedral after the Great Fire of London in 1666.

Durlston Head

Durlston Head, topped by the splendid Victorian Durlston Castle, offers exquisite views of the English Channel, Durlston Bay and the Isle of Wight. The parkland and wild coastal scenery is accessible to the public from nearby Swanage.

When you’ve explored that lot you’ll probably be ready for one of our legendary afternoon teas – a hearty appetite is essential!

Steven Titman

Eating food that’s in season makes a lot of sense – not only is it fresher and tastier, it saves transporting produce half way around the world. For all those reasons we take great care to make best use of the ingredients that are readily available in the locality at any given time of the year.

Radishes and spring onions, as the name suggests, burst onto the scene around now and I love their strong flavours and crunchy texture. But I especially look forward to the first crop of Rhubarb that emerges from the greenhouses in the springtime. Grown indoors it is sweeter, redder and more tender than the outdoor variety that ripens in the summer.

Rhubarb is terrifically versatile, and the distinctive flavour goes so well with so many other ingredients. I especially like to poach it with ginger, in light stock to make a syrup. This makes a spectacular foil for a foie gras terrine – the sweetness of the rhubarb goes particularly well with the rich fatty taste of the goose liver.

Rhubarb and custard tart is a firm favourite with our guests at this time of year for Sunday Lunch, while rhubarb soufflé with custard ice cream makes a very popular combination.

Spring Vegetables

Another feature of springtime is the arrival of wild garlic. With four acres of landscaped gardens we find it sprouting all around the hotel right now, especially in the hedgerows. We’re very fond of foraging for our food at Summer Lodge, and are offering two Adventures in Food weekends where guests can go on guided expeditions along the seashore and into the woods to see what delicacies they can find for free – so we make extensive use of the garlic that pops up on the doorstep.

Wild garlic is easy to find – the smell gives you a strong clue! We just pick the leaves, then blanch and blend into sauces. Wild garlic soup is wonderful as well, so we generally make room for that on the menu at this time of year. I also like to use it raw, blending it with olive oil to make pesto. This then becomes one of the main ingredients in a delicious wild garlic risotto, which I generally serve as an accompaniment to fish dishes.

Purple sprouting broccoli is also a firm favourite of mine in the springtime. The appearance is spectacular, it’s packed with vitamins and minerals and tastes wonderful if you quickly blanch it then sauté in hot butter with garlic and almonds.

Last, and certainly not least, is the arrival of the fresh spring lamb. You can get lamb the whole year rond , but spring lamb is best because it’s milk fed and has not been running around building up muscle…so it is more tender. The older it gets, the tougher it becomes, so now is the time to enjoy lamb at its absolute best.

I use two different cuts in my signature dish, Roast Loin of Dorset Lamb and Braised Shoulder ‘Shepherds Pie’ with Savoy Cabbage and Rosemary Jus. I call it ‘Shepherd’s Pie’ but it’s a little more sophisticated than the dish you normally associate with that name – as you’ll see from the recipe.

Equipment
1 x Isi Cream Whipper (with 2 x Gas cartridges)
Metal Rings
Butchers String
Mandolin

Braised Shoulder of Lamb
1 lamb shoulder (de-boned and trimmed)
2 onions, 1 chopped and 1 finely diced
2 carrots, 1 chopped and 1 finely diced
3 garlic cloves
1 tbsp tomato purée
100ml tomato juice
200ml red wine
500ml lamb or chicken stock
½ celeriac, finely diced
1 swede, finely diced

Potato Ring
2 large Maris Piper potatoes

Potato Foam
300g potato purée
75g milk
100g cream
50g butter
Salt and freshly milled black pepper

Roast Loin of Lamb
2 x 200g lamb loins

Rosemary Jus
2 x sprigs rosemary finely chopped

Savoy Cabbage
6 rashers streaky bacon, cut into lardons
½onion, finely chopped
½ Savoy cabbage, shredded

Method for Braised Shoulder Shepherd’s Pie

Season the lamb shoulder and sear in a hot frying pan. Place the lamb in a deep casserole dish. In the same frying pan add the chopped onions, carrots and garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the tomato puree and cook for a further 2 minutes then adding the tomato juice, red wine and stock. Bring to the boil and pour over the shoulder. Cover the dish and place in a slow oven (140°C) and braise for 5 to 6 hours until the shoulder is falling apart. Remove the shoulder, allow to cool a little and flake the meat or roughly chop. Meanwhile, strain the cooking juice and reduce in a saucepan until well flavoured and sauce consistency. In a clean saucepan cook the diced carrot, onion, celeriac and swede until soft (but not pureed). Add the diced shoulder and continue to cook on a low heat. Add a little of the sauce to bind the lamb and vegetables together. Save the rest of the sauce to one side.

Method for the potato ring

Thinly slice the potato lengthways with a mandolin. Wrap a length of greaseproof paper around a metal ring and then carefully arrange the potato slices onto it, securing with a piece of string. Deep fry until golden brown. As the potato cooks the ring and paper should fall away allowing the potato to cook evenly on both sides whilst maintaining its shape.  Drain on a piece of kitchen towel.

Method for the Potato Foam

Gently heat up the potato purée with the milk, cream and butter. Season to taste. When the potato has the consistency of whipping cream place in a cream whipper and charge with the gas.

To serve

Season and sear the loins in a hot pan and roast for approx 7 minutes, turning half way through the cooking. Remove from the oven and allow to rest. In a hot pan add the bacon and chopped onion and cook until the onions are soft. Add the shredded cabbage and cook for a further 2 minutes. Place the potato ring onto the plate and half fill with the shepherd’s pie (a ramekin can be used if the potato rings are not made.) Arrange the cabbage in front of the shepherd’s pie and place 3 slices of lamb on top. Finally place the potato foam on top of the shoulder mix. Add the chopped rosemary to the sauce and spoon a little of the jus around the lamb.

To complement this dish Eric Zweibel, our Cellar Master recommends a bottle of Galpin Peak Pinot Noir 2007 from the world renowned Bouchard Finlayson winery in Walker Bay, South Africa.

Hopefully the promise of tender spring lamb twinned with a lusciously dark fruity wine will be sufficient to tempt you to dine with us soon – especially as we are also offering these specials:

Luncheon Specials, Monday to Saturday
2-courses – £22.00 • 3-courses – £25.00
3-courses including a half bottle of wine and coffee – £36.00

Traditional Sunday lunch at just £28

Table d’Hôte Dinner
A superb value 3-course menu – £40.00

Spa Cupcake package

A fascinating lesson in the art of making the perfect cupcake followed by one of our special Spa treatments – all for just £98 per person.
For reservations, please call 01935 48 2000 or email summerlodge@rchmail.com.

Finally, if you’d like to try preparing some of Mrs Tollman’s signature dishes at home we still have some copies of her “A Life in Food” cookbook available.

Steven Titman

Christmas Pudding is an essential part of the festivities in Britain. Its origins can be traced back to the 1420s, when it was not a dessert at all, but a way of preserving meat at the end of the season. Because of shortages of fodder, all surplus livestock were slaughtered in the autumn. The meat was then kept in a pastry case along with dried fruits acting as a preservative. The resultant large “mince pies” could then be used to feed groups of people, particularly at the festive season.

The chief ancestor of the modern pudding, however, was the pottage, a meat and vegetable concoction originating in Roman times. This was prepared in a large cauldron, the ingredients being slow cooked, with dried fruits, sugar and spices added.

The earliest reference to the “standing pottage” dates to 1420s, a dish of preserved veal, mutton or chicken, thickened with bread, reddened with sandalwood and full of currants. By the time of Elizabeth I, prunes were added to this basic concoction. This became so popular that the dish was known from this point forward as Plum Pottage.

At the end of the English Civil War the victorious Puritans under Oliver Cromwell banned the celebration of Christmas and the eating of plum pudding, mainly because of the richness of the ingredients. The Puritans described it as “unfit for God-fearing people”, while the Quakers, not to be outdone in the killjoy stakes, referred to it as “the invention of the scarlet whore of Babylon “! Despite the fact that this age of misery was septet aside with the restoration of the monarchy in 1660, Christmas Pudding never quite reached its former popularity again until King George I overturned the ban and ordered it to be served on Christmas Day in 1714.

By the eighteenth century, as techniques for meat preserving improved, the savoury element of both the mince pie and the plum pottage diminished as the sweet content increased. By the 1830s the cannon-ball of flour, fruits, suet, sugar and spices, all topped with holly, makes a definite appearance, with the help of Prince Albert, who was a big fan.

Having said that, everyone has their own favourite recipe. Here’s the one I use:

Summer Lodge Christmas Pudding

Makes 8 ¼ pound Puddings

110g Shredded Suet
50g S R Flour
110g White Breadcrumbs
1tsp Mixed Spice
¼ tsp Fresh grated Nutmeg
½ tsp Ground Cinnamon
225g Soft Dark Brown Sugar
110g Sultanas
110g Raisins
275g Currants
25g Mixed Peel
1 Apple (Peeled and Diced)
½ Orange Zested
½ Lemon Zested
11 tbsp Black Treacle
3 tbsp Brandy
3 tbsp Rum
150ml Stout
2 Eggs

Mix together the Sultanas, Raisin, Currants, Mixed Peel, Apple, and Zests with the Brandy, Rum, Treacle and Stout. Leave to macerate in the fridge for 2 days.

Mix together all the dry ingredients with the eggs and then mix into the fruit.

Cover and leave in the fridge for a further day, then spoon into the moulds. To serve, cover and steam for approx 2 hours.

Tips

You can vary the ingredients to suit your personal taste – if you like cherries and walnuts, or whatever, add them in!

If the ingredients look a little dry once you’ve mixed everything together don’t be shy about adding more alcohol – the more the merrier….

To serve, warm a spoon brandy or rum, pour over the pudding at, then set alight at the table. At Summer Lodge our pudding is accompanied by brandy sauce (a brandy custard) and brandy butter (whipped butter, icing sugar and brandy). Personally, however, I like my pudding with plain cream.

Christmas at Summer Lodge promises to be an extra special one this year – we’ve already had our first taste of the snow! For further details of all that we’ve got planned for guests contact the hotel on 01935 48 2000.

Charles Lotter

Four very different writers shared the secrets of their success and their personal tricks of the trade. They were:

Roger Collis. An actor, broadcaster, writer and master raconteur who has earned world-wide recognition as a business travel guru through his long running weekly column, “The Frequent Traveler,” in the International Herald Tribune

Marcelle Bernstein. A much acclaimed novelist, nonfiction writer and journalist. Several of her novels, such as “Body & Soul” and “Sacred & Profane”, are best-sellers and were made into successful feature films and television dramas.

Eric Clark. A respected investigative journalist who has delved into the seedier aspects of crime and drugs. His gripping thrillers “Black Gambit” and “Chinese Burn” have proven particularly popular.

Jim O'Coonor

Jim O’Connor. An advertising copywriter who has promoted everything from boutique hotels to fork lift trucks, Clover Low Fat Spread to Palmolive Soap, Cornish Pasties to Australian rum.

Although very much a new idea for Summer Lodge the event was hugely enjoyed by all who attended. This success has encouraged the hotel and writers to repeat the experience on the weekend of the 15th, 16th and 17th of October.

Roger Collis kindly provided guests with a list of his 21 top tips for writing news stories, features and columns:

1. What is the story? The angle? It may be clear at the outset; it may emerge, or change, in the course of research. (Writing a weekly – especially a monthly – column, there is the risk of being pre-empted by news reports; the more spectacular the news, the more likely this is. One answer is to acknowledge knowledge of the news and commentate on it with your own inimitable spin.)

2. Researching the story: sources can be news clippings (which may spark the idea for a story); people… who can lead you to other people… the rush of excitement when suddenly you hit ‘pay dirt’ after a series of cold calls. Check and re-check the facts.

3. Research the publication; the people who read it – and their level of understanding. How much interest/knowledge can be assumed? Inform; but don’t teach experts in the field how to suck eggs.

4. Get to know the readers and talk directly to them (always be aware of the ‘reader over the shoulder’). [My readers of The Frequent Traveler column in the International Herald Tribune seemed to have a better knowledge of certain acronyms and travel jargon than those of the New York Times, for whom I often had to spell things out, only because they tended to be less informed about events outside the United States.]

5. Focus the story into the words/space available. (Don’t try to write ‘War and Peace’ in 600 words. However limited your space, selective detail can make the story come alive.

6. A news story is the antithesis of the short story (and often the feature) – the ‘denouement’ should be at the beginning, not at the end.

7. Hence the ‘pyramid lead.’ You need to engage the reader and explain what the story is about and why it is important – instantly. The lead might be a quotation, anecdotal, simply declamatory; the idea is to lead the reader into the next graf which tells the reader what the story is about and why it is important. The rest of the story is to ‘explain and amplify.’ If it needs to be cut half way down through lack of space on the page, it should still hold together. A good copy editor will try to ‘shrink’ your copy rather than cut it off at the end. But be prepared to sacrifice your ego.

8. Be active not passive; go easy on adjectives and adverbs; use concrete not abstract nouns. The best reporting rule is still to begin every story with the classic: who, what, when and where.

9. Use quotes sparingly but powerfully. Don’t pile quotes on quotes; measure them out with editorial. Give examples. Be aware of the ‘editor over the shoulder’

10. Tell people what they didn’t know

11. Style; ‘tone of voice;’ ‘point of view.’ Write as simply, as succinctly as you can and style will follow. Avoid mannerisms in the pursuit of ‘style.’ Fats Waller, when asked for a definition of jazz: ‘Lady if you have to ask, I can’t tell you.’

12. If you’re finding a pattern in disparate information and new ideas about it as you write, write on!

13. Get a ‘style book;’ what ever it is, be consistent. [For example I always use the singular after the collective noun; and tuck commas, semi-colons and full stops inside quotation marks] Good grammar matters.

14. If in doubt, cut it out. Don’t take risks on getting facts wrong.

15. Avoid ‘fine writing.’ Think about what Elmore Leonard said, ‘If it sounds like writing, I rewrite it.’

16. Satire should be almost indistinguishable from reality. (Satirists these days are always being second-guessed by real events.) Now you see it, now you don’t. I was amused to hear the other day that a CCN copy editor had tried in vain to trace my favorite deus ex machina ‘Stanley Zilch, director of Blue Skies Research Institute in Broken Springs, Colorado.’!

17. Leave readers thinking that you could have written a lot more/given more detail on the subject if only they had given you more space. It is often the subtext, what you leave out which counts.

18. Columns are ‘the art of the possible;’ if only because you’re always a phone-call away from that last vital source when the deadline looms. Or the subject is only-way ready.

19. Deadlines and the ‘automatic pilot.’ This is when experience counts; mysterious reflexes seem to kick in when you are up against the wire and passionately trying to get the damned thing filed. You’ll recognize it when it happens; it is one of the painful joys of writing journalism.

20. If you think the story is great when you file it, think again. A little anxiety is a good thing. It’s when you think you’ve done a great piece that it all falls apart. Believe me; I’ve been there.

21. Remember, you are only as good as your last story.

Charles Lotter

There are hundreds of walks to choose from, but I’ve selected a handful of my favourites. I’ve also included links to the relevant pages which show the routes in more detail, so you won’t get lost and, and as the name suggests, you don’t have to be a mountaineer!

Cerne Abbas Giant

One of the largest hill figures in Britain – carved from the chalk bedrock, he is 180 feet high.
The first written record appears in 1751, but many historians believe he represents Hercules and was created during the reign of the Emperor Commodus (the evil emperor from the epic film “Gladiator”), who believed himself to be a reincarnation of Hercules.
The giant’s obvious virility encouraged superstitious local women who wanted to conceive to spend a night alone on the hillside (withinthe confines of his giant phallus) and young couples would make love on the giant to ensure conception.

Hardy’s cottage

Hardy's Cottage

Hardy was born in 1840 in this modest cottage built by his great-grandfather. Little altered since the family left, it’s preserved by the National Trust. His early novels Under the Greenwood Tree and Far from the Madding Crowd were written here and in his books the area features as “Egdon Heath”. Hardy’s father was a master builder and paid his employees through the barred window that opens onto the heath. His grandfather was a known smuggler of brandy and the peep-hole in the porch was supposedly for spotting excise men.

Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door

The Jurassic Coastline of Dorset, awarded World Heritage status, offers a wealth of wonderful walks, but the most famous spot is undoubtedly Lulworth Cove – a perfect horse-shoe-shaped bay created by the sea. Another bay is forming behind Lulworth at Stair Hole, and half a mile west lies the famous Durdle Door, a perfect coastal arch. Lulworth beach provides a great place to relax and swim while the heritage centre reveals a history stretching back 150 million years.

Maiden Castle

Among the largest and most complex of Iron Age hillforts in Europe, its huge multiple ramparts enclose an area equivalent to 50 football pitches. Excavations revealed the site’s 4,000-year history and an extensive late Iron Age cemetery, with many of the bodies showing horrific injuries probably sustained in attacks at the time of the Roman invasion. It’s also the setting for a famous scene from the film version of “Far from the Madding Crowd” where Bathsheba (Julie Christie) has a meeting with Sergeant Troy (Terence Stamp).

Abbotsbury

For over 600 years a colony of friendly mute swans has made its home at the Abbotsbury Sanctuary. Sheltered by the famous Chesil Beach, this ancient and special site provides protection for hundreds of nesting swans and their broods. The beach itself is a stunning 18 mile long shingle bank enclosing Fleet lagoon, a tidal lake that’s home to a variety of fish, sea grasses and anemones. Abbotsbury Castle is an Iron Age hill fort with spectacular views and an ancient beacon last lit over 400 years ago to warn of the approach of the Spanish Armada.

Melbury Deer Park

Deer in Melbury Park

Summer Lodge was originally the Dower House of the Melbury Estate, so this stunning 9000 acre park, with its magnificent stags and hinds, woodlands and lakes, is an easy stroll from our front door. Ask at reception for printed directions or  if you fancy take a slightly longer route. The fabulous Melbury House was birthplace to the pioneer of photography Henry Fox Talbot. After your exertions I have several suggestions. To ease tired legs spend some time in our spa and pool. To satisfy the healthy appetite you must have built up indulge in one of our legendary cream teas. Or just head straight for the bar!

Jonathan Raggett

“Guests at Summer Lodge regularly rave about the quality of the cuisine and many express amazement at the fact that the restaurant does not get more in the way of official recognition and awards.  I totally agree, but as Managing Director of the Red Carnation Collection nobody is going to pay any attention to me – I’m obviously rather biased!

I was therefore hugely pleased to see that the recently announced Condé Nast Traveller Gold List 2010 includes Summer Lodge as one of the best three hotels in the UK for food. 

This is nothing more than Steve Titman, our Executive Chef, deserves.   The Condé Nast Traveller judges praise him for producing “fine-tuned classic English cuisine using local produce: Dorset lamb, pan-seared sole, pot-roasted guinea fowl, and his signature dish, shepherd’s pie.”  I can second that, and would like to point out that the humble sounding shepherd’s pie is a real labour of love for Steve.  It takes him two days to prepare – that’s how long he spends over a hot stove to create the gorgeously rich stock and to make sure the meat just melts in your mouth.  The presentation is a feast for the eye and the flavour is exquisite.  Calling it shepherd’s pie is, in my opinion, a little misleading…and an example of Steve’s endearing modesty.    

As the judges suggest, Steve also takes considerable pains to work very closely with local producers to find the very best that the region has to offer.  Provenance is a passion for him and he cultivates terrific relationships with local farmers, fishermen,  game keepers and cheese makers.  He also uses home grown vegetables and herbs, fresh from the hotel’s kitchen garden.

Condé Nast adds that “the wine list, by sommelier Eric Zweibel, is excellent” and I certainly wouldn’t argue with that.  Eric is a legend, with vast experience and a stunning list of achievements to his name. In 2004 he was named Ruinart’s UK Sommelier of the Year (as past winners are ineligible for further competition, he now acts as a judge) and in 2007 was listed among the world’s four most accomplished practitioners in the Best Sommelier of The World Competition, in which he was also the sole finalist from his native France.  The list he has created for Summer Lodge is truly spectacular, and has received the prestigious ‘Best of Award of Excellence’ from Wine Spectator, every year since 2005.

Earlier in the year, thanks to this talented pair and the dedicated team at Summer Lodge the restaurant was also named ‘Restaurant of the Year 2009′ in the Taste of Dorset Awards. 

I’m sure these two awards will not be their last and the pair of them already have great things planned.  They’re collaborating on a series of cookery demonstrations, and have just announced the 2010 season of Summer Lodge wine dinners – if you enjoy your food and wine, and want to learn from a couple of real masters, these are opportunities I’m sure you won’t want to miss!

Dover Sole, as the name suggests, is not a fish one catches off the steeply shelving coast of South Africa, but one that prefers the shallow continental water of the English Channel and North Sea.

I first encountered this delicacy when we moved to London in the mid-seventies, and very quickly developed a passion for it, either grilled or meunière. As with all fish dishes you need to find the best possible raw materials, then let the natural flavours speak for themselves – simple as this sounds in theory, it takes practice to perfect!

There are several little tricks that must be mastered. First, and perhaps most important of all, you must never overcook it. Secondly, and slightly contrary to the first tip, both sides must be as crispy as possible.

So, how to achieve the crispiness without spoiling the gorgeous melt-in-your-mouth moistness of the delicate flesh?

Start by lightly seasoning it with salt and pepper, then dust with flour. Next, brush both sides with about a tablespoon of olive oil. Then place it on a hot char-grill (or a ridged cast iron pan) for just 90 seconds (no more!), then carefully turn it at a 90° angle, on the same side, for a further 90 seconds to achieve a lovely diamond cross-hatching effect. Turn it over with a metal spatula (carefully!) and do the same again. Then gently transfer it onto a baking dish and place in the oven at 180°C for 8-10 minutes. The fish is done when the bones move easily away from the flesh when you delicately insert a fork.

It’s best served with simple accompaniments – home made tartare sauce, freshly squeezed lemon juice and boiled new potatoes (tossed with a touch of butter, olive oil and chopped parsley). Done properly, it’s a taste of pure heaven, and one that one never seems to get tired of.

That’s why it’s a regular feature on the menu at some of our hotels, and why I’ve included it in my cook book – entitled “A Life in Food” it celebrates those recipes which are enduring favourites with our guests.  All proceeds, excluding postage and packaging, will be donated to my favourite charities – The Startlight Foundation and The Tick Tock Club in the UK.